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257: Norwich Cathedral, England
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Norwich Cathedral, England
Mystery Worshipper: La Gioconda.
The church: Cathedral of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, Norwich.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: A graceful Norman building of honey-coloured Caen stone, begun in 1096 and completed in 1145. On my personal list of favourite English cathedrals, Norwich rates third, after Durham and Wells, and ties with St Albans as the cathedral most friendly to visitors.
The neighbourhood: The cathedral close is, according to the guidebook, one of the largest in England and boasts some very handsome houses, some of them dating from the 12th century.
The cast: Celebrant: the Dean, Stephen Platten. Preacher: the Bishop of Norwich.
What was the name of the service?
Family Eucharist on Christmas Day.

How full was the building?
The nave was packed, but there were a few empty seats in the side aisles. We were told that it had been standing-room only at the midnight service.

Did anyone welcome you personally?
Our family party was warmly welcomed at the door by a member of clergy and again by the people handing out service sheets in the aisles.

Was your pew comfortable?
Rather hard chairs, linked together. No kneelers.

How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
There was an atmosphere of pleasant anticipation, a gentle hum of conversation, very unlike the starchy formality I've experienced in some cathedrals. One got the impression from the conversation around us that many of the people there were regular attenders rather than strangers who had come to get their yearly fix of religion at Christmas time.

What were the exact opening words of the service?
Before the service, the Dean said, "Good morning and welcome to Norwich cathedral," from the pulpit. He explained that after the second hymn children in the congregation would be invited to follow the Canon Pastor pied-piper fashion to the crib at the west end of the cathedral for prayers and intercessions. He then repeated his welcome and wished us a happy Christmas.

What books did the congregation use during the service?
User-friendly printed service sheet with the responses and carols to be sung by the congregation in bold. Details of the charities supported by the collection were given on the first page with an exhortation to be generous.

What musical instruments were played?
The magnificent organ, but sadly not the cymbals which were secreted in by senior members of the choir on another occasion we attended.

Did anything distract you?
Several pleasant distractions: our usual Christmas Day diversion of guessing which of the gloves, hats, scarves and fancy waistcoats sported by members of the congregation were Christmas presents; the spectacle of the smallest probationers tumbling joyously into their places in the choir before the proceedings began; and during the service the amazing sound of approximately 700 people turning the page of their service sheet at the same moment.

Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
A nice balance between formality and informality. The procession of clergy and choristers was carefully planned and choreographed and contrasted well with the informality of the cheerful crowd of children and parents with babies processing to the crib. At this point, the congregation turned to face the west end and were able to enjoy an entirely different view of the building. It was good to see all the beautiful spaces of the cathedral being fully utilised.

Norwich Cathedral, England

Exactly how long was the sermon?
9 minutes.

On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
8. The bishop's very down-to-earth delivery contrasted with his rather amazing rigout – a heavily gold-encrusted cope fastened with a gold morse the size of a tea plate, which made him look like one of the three kings.

In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
Christmas journeys: journeys symbolised by processions, including straggly processions of children who regarded the proceedings with wide-eyed wonder. This was contrasted with the absence of joy among careworn shoppers whom the bishop had observed in the supermarket aisles before Christmas. A poem was quoted in which Santa Claus was arrested for causing an outbreak of spontaneous joy.

Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The ordered unfolding of the service which offered an opportunity to lose oneself in the drama of the eucharist. There was space to ponder the mystery of the incarnation, to feel for a brief interval that God was in his heaven and, despite reports to the contrary, all might, eventually, be right with the world.

And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
Momentary feeling of rebellion when urged to hurry to the altar by a slightly over-zealous warden. Wondered whether there would be a need for crowd control in heaven.

What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
There was no chance to hang about as we were literally swept out of the doors by a cheerful crowd hurrying home to Christmas lunch. A member of clergy shook our hands and wished us "Happy Christmas" as we sped past.

How would you describe the after-service coffee?
No coffee served on this occasion, but I am told it is usually available after the service.

How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10 – Too far away, alas, but it is such a treat for members of a small rural parish to worship with a large congregation in a magnificent and well-maintained building with excellent music and a service which goes without a hitch.

Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes.

What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The wide-eyed wonder of the youngest member of our party (five months) who was stunned into amazed silence by the sheer volume of sound coming from the organ and who continued to be enchanted by the proceedings throughout the 55 minutes of the service.

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