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The church: Tewkesbury Abbey, England.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: This is one of the largest abbey churches to survive the dissolution of the monasteries under Henry VIII. The enormous building is Romanesque and dates from the 12th century, with some of the finest medieval tombs in England.
The neighbourhood: The abbey has a large lawn at the front but is otherwise surrounded by buildings, shops and offices. It therefore has a similar setting to that when it was a working Benedictine monastery.
The cast: The preacher was the Archbishop of Wales, the Most Rev. Rowan Williams. The celebrant was the Bishop of Gloucester, the Rt. Rev. David Bentley.
Solemn Eucharist on the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and in thanksgiving for the 10th anniversary of Affirming Catholicism.
How full was the building?
Very – about 300 people in the nave plus choir, and lots of clergy and servers.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
Yes. I was given a service sheet and then introduced to a friend of the family I was staying with.
Was your pew comfortable?
Yes, it had lots of leg room for a tall person like me.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Expectant. The lady in front told her neighbour she could smell the incense already!
What were the exact opening words of the service?
"The Angel of the Lord brought tidings unto Mary..."
What books did the congregation use during the service?
A special service booklet printed for the occasion.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ. The "Milton Organ" was originally built for Magdalen College, Oxford, and moved to the abbey via Hampton Court Palace, where the poet John Milton is reputed to have played it.
Did anything distract you?
There was a baby in a pram behind me who had every right to join in, but this is not the sort of occasion where the congregation join in much and I was half worried that the mother might be embarrassed if the baby cried during the long choral parts of the service. As it turned out, my worries were unfounded as the baby was as good as gold throughout.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
A high mass with very old-fashioned ceremonial and three sacred ministers at a far-distant high altar moving about in a well-rehearsed choreography. Although I crossed myself on seeing the host and chalice elevated, I couldn't actually see them because they were so far away.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
12 minutes, which is not enough from a preacher as gifted as Rowan Williams.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
8. He would normally score 10, but it was not one of his best, though still considerably better than much of the stuff on offer in Anglican churches.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
Unlike the cathedral at Albi, whose windows shut out the world, Toulouse Lautrec painted people from brothels and dance halls, bathed in light. Similarly, God takes ordinary people, like Our Lady and transforms them – and us.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
Feeling the transcendance of God as the mass happened beyond a screen at a distance. This was in contrast to the many mundane services which lack mystery and awe and which seem to have become the norm.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
I could not avoid feeling that the "plummy" middle class atmosphere and the arcane ceremonial would alienate the people among whom I work in a "challenging" working-class environment. I needed to remind myself that worship should be enjoyed.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
I was greeted by a clergyman at the back who used to worship in my own church when he was a student.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
There was a good buffet supper and wine to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Affirming Catholicism.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
9 – it could have been 10 had I not felt it was a bit out of touch with the modern world.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes, because it lifted me out of daily, ephermeral worries.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
The linking of Mary with dancing girls, which would probably give her more pleasure than the plastic statues which normally depict her.
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