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The church: The Cathedral Church of Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary, Durham.
Denomination: Church of England.
The building: Built in Saxon times to house the shrine of St Cuthbert, whose bones were moved here from Lindisfarne, Durham Cathedral was a major centre of pilgrimage in medieval times, with some 7,000 masses performed each year. The cathedral is massively built, an unchanged example of 11th-century Romanesque architecture, awe-inspiring in its strength and splendour. Walter Scott described it as 'half Church of God, half castle 'gainst the Scots' – and in fact, the cathedral once served as a prison for 4,000 Scots soldiers captured at the Battle of Dunbar.
The neighbourhood: The cathedral has the most dramatic setting of any British cathedral. It stands on a rocky promontory above a sharp bend in the River Wear, with Durham Castle just behind it.
The cast: Very Rev. Dr John Arnold, the Dean.
Evensong and Admission of Choristers.
How full was the building?
Over half full.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
Yes, and we were shown to our seats in the nave.
Was your pew comfortable?
Yes. Our pew was exceptionally generous on leg room.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Despite the fact that there were lots of tourists wandering round, the atmosphere was astonishingly prayerful.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
'Mr Dean, I present to you these boys, to be choristers of this Cathedral Church.'
What books did the congregation use during the service?
The Book of Common Prayer and The New English Hymnal.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ.
Did anything distract you?
The whole experience was so amazing, I forgot to note down the opening words of the service – but I persuaded someone to sneak back in afterwards to copy them down from the Dean's order of service.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or
what?
The choir sang most of the service.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
There was no sermon. Instead, breathtakingly, the choir sang the anthem, 'Gloria in excelsis Deo', and there were no complaints!
Which part of the service was like being in
heaven?
It's impossible to isolate one single element. The setting, the music, the atmosphere, the choir, the special additions to the service to welcome the new choristers – it was all beautiful.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
Nothing at all.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
We were invited back to the Prior's Hall for tea and coffee.
How would you describe the after-service
coffee?
Tasteful English crockery, decent tea and coffee, and exceptionally high-quality biscuits.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a
Christian?
Yes, extremely. I overheard a comment after the service: 'I could almost become a Christian for this.'
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time?
Bill Bryson is quoted as saying: 'I unhesitatingly gave Durham my vote as best cathedral on planet Earth.' He underestimated it by a galaxy.
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